“What is wrong with my plant?”  This question often is a source of frustration because there are many reasons they will not do well and without knowing the history of the plant or seeing the symptoms,  it is very difficult to make a correct diagnosis.  We have tried never the less, to offer you some suggestions in making a diagnosis on your dead, dying or sick camellias.

Problems with camellias can occur at any stage of development and growth.  Some may be minor annoyances while others may cause death.  A little detective work is usually necessary when diagnosing camellia problems.  Make certain you gather all of the facts pertaining to your plant before making a diagnosis.  Never make quick decisions on appearance only as some symptoms may mimic others causing an incorrect diagnosis and very possibly inappropriate treatment.

Get to know your plant

Familiarize yourself with the camellia, the specific variety and it’s needs, it’s dislikes as well as common problems.  For example,  some problems can occur with Camellia japonica that do not occur with Camellia sasanqua.  You can contact the plant professionals at Gene’s Nursery for the specific requirements of your plant.  Here’s what you need to know?

1. Does my variety prefer sun or shade?
2. When does my variety bloom?  Are there any special characteristics to blooming?
3. What diseases and pests are common?
4. Are there any particular problems facing this variety?

Camellias generally do not like wet or dry feet.  Moist but well drained is conducive to all camellias.  There are over 250 species of camellia known to be in existence.  Some of the species have many varieties in each family.  For example,  Camellia japonica has over 4000 varieties registered in the U.S. alone  with thousands internationally.  Each species and each variety has certain characteristics that make them unique.  Foliage, blooms, growth habits, and bloom season make each one unique.

CHECK OUT THE GROWING ENVIRONMENT

1.     What have been the weather patterns?  More or less rain than usual, perhaps with periods of drought followed by periods of rain?

2.     Has there been a deep freeze or ice storm?

3.     Are there other plants showing the same type of stress or is this an isolated case?

4.     Pull back the mulch,  what does the soil look like?  Is it very moist or very dry?  Dig down and see what the conditions are.  Very often plants can be moist for 1-2 inches and then very dry down beyond that.  This could be caused by a poor soil and a sloping to the planting area causing water to run off instead of down into the root ball?

5.     Really look at your irrigation system. Turn it on and watch it or call a professional.   Could there be some deflection from other plants preventing or decreasing the amount of water or could your plant be located very near a head causing more water in that area?

6.     Consider your irrigation system’s performance with the amount of rainfall?  Could it need to be adjusted?

7.     Are you relying on rainfall as the water source?

8.     Purchase an inexpensive water meter probe that can be inserted into the soil next to the plant.  Is it moist, wet or dry?  A water meter is a very worthwhile investment.

9.     Are you watering with a shallow well?  Do you live close to the salt water?  Could there be a problem with your water containing too much salt?  You may want to have it tested.

10.  Has the plant or area around it  been fertilized, pruned, or sprayed with some sort of chemical recently?  What about your neighbors?  Have they sprayed their plants etc? Runoff can occur and affect your plants.

11.  Were there any chemical spills recently near the plants?

12.  Is there a possibility of damage from long legged friends such as deer or dogs?

13.  Do you have squirrels?  Squirrels will break branches, scar bark and branches and will steal flower buds.

LOOK AT  YOUR PLANT

1.     Is your plant still alive?  Check the bark by gently scratching with your fingernail or a knife.  A green cambium layer below the outer bark indicates that the plant is still alive.

2.     Look at the leaves for signs of insect or disease damage.

3.     Distinct brown spots on leaves surrounded by a dark halo may indicate a disease problem.

4.     A foliar scorching often indicates a root problem (excessive moisture, over-fertilization, drought, etc)

5.     Inspect the branches and stems for swollen areas and cankers, insect punctures, sap flowing from insect entry holes, or mechanical damage (from a lawnmower or weed-eater) to the trunk.

6.     Check the planting depth.  Container grown plants should be planted slightly higher than ground level with no dirt on top of the root ball, only mulch. Planting too deep will cause plant decline in over all health, bloom malfunction and loss, and complete death to the plant.

7.     Look at the root system for signs of decay.  White fibrous roots should be evident near the drip like or tip of the canopy.  If roots appear brown, and decayed, look closer at the planting site for a possible cause.

8.     Look for insects, inspect the stems and especially the leaves,  top and bottom.  Do you notice anything unusual? Holes in stems and branches can be caused by borers.  We once lost a 20’ Cherry tree to a borer.

TAKE SAMPLES TO PROFESSIONALS

If you can not determine the source of your problem,  get as much of the information as you can as listed above and carry it to a professional nurserymen or your county extension office.  It is a good idea to have these samples available:

1.     Leave samples

2.     Stem or branch samples

3.     Soil sample

4.     Samples of any insects found

5.     Water samples